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Review: The Yard
This week's review is of the Yard (4300 Sixth St. S, St. Petersburg; 727-498-8809), which is a sports bar at its heart, but with better food than you would expect to find at such a place. It is in the spot formerly occupied by Shackelton's Folly in southern St. Petersburg. Here is a link to the review, and here is one to the restaurant's site, which is just the menu. (Some of the prices are out of date on the menu. The ones that are wrong have gone down.)
Link: Chef responds to challenge
The talk around here comes to the state of restaurants in the bay area a lot, and whether they are good enough, in general, and why can't they be better. Blah, blah, blah. Well, apparently, we aren't the only place having that conversation. After John Kessler, the dining critic at the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, wrote a open-letter blog post challenging area chefs to up their game, one of Atlanta's chefs, Nick Oltarsh of two Atlanta restaurants, responded with an open letter to diners, challenging diners to reward chefs for upping their game. I thought both letters brought up a lot of good points and were applicable far outside the 404 area code.
Review: Portofino Mediterranean Grill
This week's review is of Portofino Mediterannean Grill (18825 US Hwy. 19 N. Clearwater; 727-286-6234), where we witnessed some of the largest portions of anything i have ever seen on a plate that wasn't intended to feed an entire family. Frankly, i thought it was too much, but it certainly increases the value if you take it home and make three or four meals of it. The interior, it should be noted, is beautiful. In fact, on one visit, one of the people I was with took a photo of the blue-lit, wave-textured white wall (pictured) and made it the background on her phone. Also, I thought it was funny that I could find no vestiges of the building's former life as a Hops ... until i looked at the high-top tables outside, which were inset with barley and hops and other beer ingredients. ... Read more
Link to Pepin's story
Sorry, meant to link to this story about Pepin closing earlier in the week, but it got lost in my stack of things to deal with. Thanks to EquinsuOcha for the reminder. Have to admit, I have never been to Pepin, so I can't really add anything. If it was a favorite of your's, you still have time to get in one more time before it closes Jan. 30.
Benedicts at Grand Central Perc, chili at Backwaters
-- Grand Central Perc (2444 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; 727-498-8870) is up and running. In addition to coffee and tea, it has pastries and sandwiches, but on Sundays it is hosting what it is calling a "celebrity chef" series. A guest chef -- either a celebrity or an aspiring one -- comes in and cooks their specialty. This Sunday, Elizabeth Dougherty, the host of Food Nation Radio and the Eat St. Pete blog, will be making her Boursin Benedicts. The cost will be $9.95, and I have been assured there will be mimosas.
-- Backwaters on Sand Key (1261 Gulf Blvd., Clearwater; 727-517-7383) hosts its sixth annual chili cookoff on Jan. 30. The contest is open to home cooks, and prizes include gift cards and gift baskets ... and bragging rights. Entry forms are available at the restaurant.
Closed, or never opened
It seems we are at the end of two stories for which there has been much ado.
I never quite figured out when Lagniappe Bistro (350 First Ave. N) was ever open. I know it was, because i walked in once. There were people behind the counter and everything. That restaurant had been in the making for some time, and with the amount of history it had amassed before even opening, I decided to give it some time before checking it out. The early menu I had suggested it was open for lunch hours only. So, when I decided that, officially or not, i wanted something New Orleans-flavored, I went over to get a po' boy. But no matter when I went over, they were closed. Not in a way that looked like they were out of business, because there were tables set, and lights on, but decidedly unopen. Friends told me that they had seen them open in the evening, but that it didn't look like they had anything resembling food.
All this leading to the fact that there is now a For Lease sign in front of the store, and brown paper covers the windows. So, I'll pretty much scratch that one off the list. ... Read more
Links: 2011 Dining Issue of Weekend
In this week's Weekend edition, I set up a fantasy progressive dinner through the bay area, putting together some of my favorite dishes from area restaurants in a course-by-course tour. And after we got the idea of doing the technically impossible dinner, we started talking about where we could do real progressive dinners, and came up with mini tours in Seminole Heights, Dunedin and Gulfport. Certainly there are other places that you could do a dinner like this, and I would love to hear your suggestions. You can read about all of that online -- here is the story on top dishes and here is the neighborhood dinners -- but I highly recommend taking a look at it in the paper on Thursday. ... Read more
Emilio's, Gallagher's close
Emilio's Bistro (437 Central Ave., St. Petersburg) and Gallagher's Steakhouse (615 Channelside Dr., Tampa) have closed.
The story with Gallagher's is that it will re-open as a different concept -- Italian -- under the same franchisee. The story with Emilio's location is more complicated.
Here, despite the fact that no one has asked for my opinion, is what I would do if I was putting in the next restaurant that will go in that space: Gut it, and start over. That sliver of a restaurant has been more things in the past six years than any location I can think of. And I can't help but think it is at least in part due to the strange layout of the place. You walk in, and all you see is kitchen. You have to walk down a thin aisle to get to the seating area. Once back there, you are trapped back there with all the noises, smells and heat from the kitchen. Emilio's had upgraded the room from previous incarnations, with fans and lighter walls, which helped move some of that air. But in the best-case scenario, that room is awkward. ... Read more
Review: Burger 21
This week's review is on Burger 21, a new spot in Westchase where Chris Ponte did the menu for a presumptive chain backed by the Melting Pot folks. At Burger 21, Ponte solves one of the greatest problems facing our generation: a proper condiment for sweet potato fries. Okay, okay, there were bigger problems facing our generation. But at least the sweet potato fry condiment thing is solved. So now we can really concentrate on those other ones. Here is a link to the review, and here is a link to the the Burger 21 site.
... Read more
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