Bagels led to thoughts of other carbs I have known and loved. Since I started at the paper, lots of readers have contacted me jonesing for dim sum.

The truth is, making it yourself is just nigh impossible. The basics of crepes, souffles, even sushi rolls can be conveyed in just a few cooking classes. But trying to make any of the intricately folded dim sum dumplings is like attempting a scale model of the Lusitania crafted from fresh earth worms. The dough wriggles, it slips, the filling squirms out. It prompts invective and spitting vituperation, preferably in Chinese, but any language will do. Any dim sum master would tell you, if he or she were inclined, that the secret to success is just like that joke about how to get to Carnegie Hall: practice, practice, practice.

Fuggedaboutit, leave it to the experts. Around here, there are precious few. Ho Ho Choy (1441 E Fletcher Ave., Tampa, 813/962-2159) makes a fair array of workhorse dumplings, and T.C. Choy’s (301 S. Howard Ave., Tampa, 813/251-1191) offers the classic cart service. To a lesser degree, Mandarin Buffet (30280 Hwy. 19 N, Clearwater, 727/789-8988) gets some dumplings going.

Where am I missing? Anyone got a good dim sum joint they'd like to share?