My review of Chappy's today made me cogitate a little about Louisiana restaurants. At the end of July, New Orleans’s Times-Picayune started doing something it hadn’t done since Hurricane Katrina three years ago. It started running restaurant reviews again. After the storm, the paper’s award-winning restaurant critic, Brett Anderson, retooled his job, forgoing critiquing the local restaurants to report on their rebuilding. By some people’s calculations, the Big Easy has 100 more restaurants than it did before Katrina. Even Alan Richman (who, not long after Katrina, wrote a searing rant about the mediocrity of New Orleans restaurants, a piece was was effectively debunked here by Brett Anderson) and the rest of the country's food writers seem to be enthusiastic about the culinary direction the city's moving in. Hm, maybe it's time for a road trip...