Jeannie Pierola strikes again. The celebrated former Bern’s chef has kept herself busy since her departure from the fabled steak house more than a year ago. First, she swooped in to retool the menu at flailing De Santo in St. Petersburg. More recently, she worked with old buddy Eric Schiller, owner of Gaspar’s Grotto in Ybor City, to rethink the menu there.

Tampa’s beloved memorabilia-laden (and dog-friendly) pirate bar got a major makeover in the kitchen, with the “Set Sail” menu having been unveiled slowly over the past several months: littleneck clam Alfredo; smokin’ pulled pork sandwich with fancy slaw; New York strip with yucca fries, marinated tomatoes and chimichurri; Maine lobster roll with housemade potato chips—its once basic-food-and-grog menu has been given a gleam of sophistication.

At the end of December, though, she and Schiller put the finishing touches on a new Sunday brunch menu (Schiller hasn’t completely fixed on a name: maybe Captain Ehab’s Booze Cruise Brunch, or maybe a more minimalist Fun Brunch). The overarching theme is laidback, pirate-pumped, Ybor-style fun, but with high-quality food (price: $29.95). They’ve experimented with a beignet recipe, the plan to shake them in a bag with sugar and pass them around the dining room (a tribute to the way Phil Alessi did it years ago).

Each guest gets a 3-ounce carafe of vodka—as Schiller says, “That’s one hellacious drink or three smaller Bloody Marys.” There are classic Benedicts (or one served over a deviled crab cake), chocolate-stuffed French toast and, somewhat surprisingly, a traditional Japanese breakfast. Live music outside, a raw bar and other stations, and everyone gets a little time with Tanker Ray, the resident feline mascot.

Pierola’s own Next Big Thing is still a matter of much speculation. Some say it will be in Ybor City, other rumors swirl about someplace in South Tampa. But if she just keeps gussying up existing restaurant concepts, that’s OK too.

Gaspar's Grotto, 1805 E 7th Ave., Tampa, (813) 248-5900