It was too early to visit for a review. It just opened, for crying out loud. But I still snuck over to Ocean Prime, the Modern American Supper Club (International Plaza, 2205 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa, (813) 490-5288) this weekend for dinner. Seriously one of the most glamorous restaurants to open here in ages, and the food was every bit as good.

It looks like the dining room of a stately old cruise ship: porthole windows and gleaming wooden paneling, huge amber-lit chandeliers that you can imagine swaying a little with the waves' motion. Waiters and bussers, clad in white servers' jackets (also very cruise ship) are exceptional, whisking in and out to crumb a table or refill a glass.

I had to call this morning to find out how many of these incredible servers are corporate types who will disappear in a poof of smoke once the restaurant is firmly on its feet. Brandon, the general manager, told me that five waiters and bartenders were imported from the mothership in Columbus as well as the Detroit location, and that three cooks have been parachuted in to get the kitchen up to speed. All will depart next week. So, the talent they've managed to assemble (dozens of bartenders, barbacks, hostesses, servers, etc.) is largely from a local pool. Amazing. These people were eloquent about the menu, intuitive about diners' needs, personable and professional.

I'm gushing, I know. And the food was spectacular. A prime ribeye (it got a dry rub that tasted faintly garlicky before it was treated to a brief 1200-degree sizzle), with drinkably-good bearnaise, a side of vinegared plank fries, a bowl of sauteed wild mushrooms. Classic steakhouse food, every detail attended to. And the seafood we tried was super fresh and expertly prepared.

So, run don't walk. (And word is the celebs will be flowing in there all week. Something about Joe Montana on Wednesday, among others.)