Saw this New York Post lament about the loss of white tablecloths in, um, white tablecloth restaurants. Really, about the "casualization" of restaurants these days. My response to this isn't totally straightforward. I'm in the process of reviewing Maison Blanche in Longboat Key right now. I'd never been until recently (a fellow TBA food writer sang its praises to me over lunch), and what I was struck most with was its attention to details like linens, glassware, cushy club chairs and eagle-eyed service. It all seemed somehow Old School, which gave me pause. Are nice linens quaint vestiges from a time gone by?

Linens services are expensive. And what is more, linen service in the long run is bad for the environment (drycleaning chemicals, bleaches, the cost of transportation to and from). So, unclothed tables are more responsible. HOWEVER, a restaurant of unclothed tables can be Crazy Loud. I'm fine with the Windex-and-go tabletop, but not if it ricochets the sound all over the place. Noise abatement tools (Richard G, weigh on those panels and under-table mufflers) are a worthwhile expense in my book.

But I like a napkin. A cloth one. And I don't want my silverware tied up in it like a hobo bag awaiting a stick. I want to see my table set, with the fork over here on my left and the knife and spoon sitting over there on my right, not all squinched together on a paper napkin on the left. Unless, of course, it's a super-casual place.