Tampabay.com

JANUARY 18, 2011

Review: Burger 21

burger21.jpgThis week's review is on Burger 21, a new spot in Westchase where Chris Ponte did the menu for a presumptive chain backed by the Melting Pot folks. At Burger 21, Ponte solves one of the greatest problems facing our generation: a proper condiment for sweet potato fries. Okay, okay, there were bigger problems facing our generation. But at least the sweet potato fry condiment thing is solved. So now we can really concentrate on those other ones. Here is a link to the review, and here is a link to the the Burger 21 site.

Funny thing happened right after I wrote the part mocking stratospherically priced burgers designed to make headlines: I got a link to a Wall Street Journal post about a burger by Hubert Keller that costs $5,000. Apparently, at least part of that price tag accounts for the bottle of 1995 Petrus that comes in the combo with it. (I wonder if you can supersize that?). But the burger features ... wait for it ... Kobe beef and foie gras. It also has black truffles on top, which I forgot to mention in the review, but that's pretty standard on these kind of burgers, too. The burger is available at his new restaurant in Las Vegas, which explains it at least a little bit. Hoping to separate people from found money.

The most expensive burger I've had from this class was Daniel Boulud's $32 burger at db Bistro Moderne in New York, and it was good enough that I'm willing to say that it was worth it, considering all the factors. It wasn't Kobe, which is fine, but its hook was that the ground sirloin was wrapped around braised short ribs, and there was a slice of seared foie in the middle of the short ribs. The result was less of a burger and more of a big meatball on a nice brioche bun. Presumably, there were black truffles on top, but on mine they were a rumor. There was an option for additional truffle, but that took the price to $99, and $32 was already stretching the bounds of rationality for a burger, as far as i was concerned.

What's the most you've spent for a burger? Would you do it again?

Times photo by Lara Cerri photo

Join the discussion: Click to view comments, add yours
Loading...

Advertisement

Comment Policy