Thursday, December 14, 2017
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Bring out the best in Brussels sprouts with the help of toasted walnuts and lemon

Brussels sprouts can generate some pretty strong opinions. As with cilantro or goat cheese, you either love them or hate them.

The little stinkers are the smallest of the crucifers and, when prepared incorrectly, can develop a scary aroma and deadly taste. Yet they somehow remain a perennial feature on many Thanksgiving menus.

In fairness, it's hard to cook Brussels sprouts to their best advantage because they are so densely constructed. By the time the heat gets to the core, there's a good chance that the outside has been overcooked.

It used to be that I had no better idea about what to do with them than anyone else. I just followed the procedure I learned in cooking school — trim them, use a knife to score the bottom in a crisscross pattern 1/4 inch deep (so they cook more evenly), and boil or steam them until done. The results were not exactly inspiring.

It wasn't until the Too Hot Tamales showed me a better way that I fell in love. The Tamales — chefs Sue Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken, the co-hosts of their own show on the Food Network once upon a time — sliced the sprouts very thin, then quickly sauteed them. And I do mean quickly — 3 to 5 minutes in the pan and they're good to go.

The simplicity of this technique is, of course, a huge bonus on Thanksgiving Day, when you are trying to cook 500 other dishes at the same time. You can either pre-saute the sprouts, then quickly reheat them when the moment is right, or just cook them from start to finish while someone else is carving the turkey.

Even more impressive than the process is the result: the surprising deliciousness of these shredded sauteed Brussels sprouts. You don't need a lot of fat to cook them in, and the little guys pair up nicely with all sorts of toasted nuts. I've opted for walnuts in this recipe, but swap in your favorite. And a tart little spritz of lemon provides the finishing touch.

Take my word for it: When it comes to Brussels sprouts, this recipe has turned haters into believers over and over again.

By the way, who put the Brussels in Brussels sprouts? The Belgians, of course. The sprouts were first cultivated in large quantities in Belgium in the late 1500s, and introduced to the United States in the 1800s.

Sara Moulton was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years, stars in "Sara's Weeknight Meals" and has written three cookbooks.

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