Go to Bernini for the food, stay for the martinis

I spent days in the fetal position on my futon. It had been that kind of week. Until Thursday. Finally woke up feeling like a fellow in his prime — well, sort of. Time to celebrate with a strong, well-made drink and a feast.

I arrived in Ybor City about 5 p.m. Walked toward Bernini, one of my favorite Italian restaurants. Saw the sign outside and began to salivate: "1/2 priced pastas and entrees daily from 4 to 7 p.m."

I ducked inside the beautiful former bank lobby. Spotted an older couple enjoying the early bird special at a table downstairs. A young woman seated at the handsome wood and stone bar had a caramel-colored martini in front of her and a half-eaten plate of food. I took a comfy wooden chair a few down from her.

The bartender looked me square in the eye and stuck out his hand. Johnnie Ault introduced himself and asked my name. Nice, friendly gestures like that go a long way in my book.

Bernini boasts a fine assortment of wines, brandy/cognac/cordials and alcohol-enhanced coffee drinks (there's an espresso machine behind the bar). The superior single malt scotch list includes the legendary Johnnie Walker Blue Label. There isn't a signature mixed drink menu but Ault and the other bartenders promise to make you "pretty much anything you want."

I had a hankering for something sweet but not fruity. Ault delivered with an excellent Espresso Martini garnished with coffee beans ($11). I sipped on the vodka-based beverage, noshed on fresh bread and perused the menu. There was no way I could pass up half-price entrees.

My eyes locked on the Pork Osso Buco, which would have been $22 full price. "Slow braised pork osso buco with natural au jus, roasted fennel saffron risotto and a grilled carrot," read the menu. Ault promised the meat would be fall-off-the-bone delicious. It was.

For dessert, I had a delectable dirty martini (gin, vermouth, olive brine; $11). Two fat olives stuffed with pepperoncini and garlic is the key ingredient. They are a salty treat that make for a scrumptious couple of bites once the cocktail is finished. Ault also recommends his strawberry mojito.

Looking for the ideal place to have a three-martini lunch, Mad Men-style? Martinis made with Finlandia vodka cost a mere $2 Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; and Fridays 11 a.m. all the way until 7 p.m. Now, that's how an upscale restaurant and bar makes good during a recession.

Wade Tatangelo can be reached at wtatangelo@hotmail.com.