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For cooking fish, use wood plank, steamer or parchment paper

You love fish. You order it all the time when you dine out. But you don't cook it at home, right? Let me guess — you overcook it in the oven and it falls apart on the grill? No worries. There are other ways, methods that get it right just about every time. Sure, there's some special equipment, but it comes cheap: parchment paper ($3), a bamboo steamer ($19) or cedar planks ($7 for 2) and you're cooking.

Harnessing steam

Tender-fleshed fish, vibrantly hued veggies with just the right snap: In careful hands, steam is the gentlest of cooking methods. The method can impart added flavor to cooking foods, while restoring moisture and maintaining the integrity of delicate foods like flaky fish.

Even before prehistoric cooks had a handle on cooking with fire, they cooked with steam, hauling warm rocks from natural hot springs to heat water. At its most basic, to steam is to suspend food over simmering liquid, allowing the gentle convection of hot water molecules to penetrate the food in question. Just how you go about this culinary sauna is a matter of choice.

In much of Asia, a multilevel bamboo steamer is tucked into a wok of just-boiling water, a tight lid trapping the transforming vapor. On the other hand, the French often prefer swaddling foods "en papillote" — parchment, waxed paper or even foil serving as a sealed envelope to steam foods in their own evaporating liquids. Beyond these, there's the classic metal, collapsible steamer basket fitted into the bottom of a pasta cooker or stockpot, or the generous area provided by a fish poacher fitted with a wire rack. These are all viable methods for gently cooking fish.

Regardless of method, steam's benefits are indisputable. Rendering extra cooking fats unnecessary, steaming goes one step further, elegantly stripping fatty meats of their excess calories as the heated water molecules "sweat" out the molten fat. And in vegetable cooking, high levels of vitamins A and C are retained in the finished dish. Steam can be harnessed from broth, wine or herb-infused liquids, delicately flavoring the finished foods.

Bamboo steamers are available at nearly every Asian grocery. Be sure to oil the surfaces before using it for the first time, and make sure it sits just above the water level of the simmering wok or pot underneath (if your water level is higher, you're boiling, not steaming).

For cooking "en papillote," parchment trumps waxed paper (which tears easily and will burn at high temps) and foil (which will discolor and react to salty or acidic foods), and it makes a nice tableside presentation, presuming diners know not to eat it. Choose fish and other foods that cook quickly: flaky fish versus meaty fish, chicken breast versus thigh. With veggies, par cook things like potatoes that take more cooking time. And a little splash of wine, citrus, broth, butter or even coconut milk ensures that the packet has enough liquid to really steam, but remember that veggies like spinach and tomato throw a lot of liquid of their own. Olives, herbs, garlic and zest add their own robust flavor to the cooking broth in the packet.

On the board

Many of us use a gas grill, which has two shortcomings for grilling fish: It doesn't impart that rich, smoky flavor, and fish can stick or fall through the slats. Voila, the cedar plank. A clean, untreated piece of wood (cedar is good, but cherry, alder, oak and others work nicely) about 1 inch thick provides a stable surface for fish and imparts its own sweet, smoky flavor. Many grocery stores now carry a line of cedar planks in their barbecue sections.

The only essential tasks are soaking the board for at least an hour before grilling and very lightly brushing the soaked board with cooking oil so your fish doesn't stick. Cook over medium high heat, with the board directly over the flames. While the fish itself is cooking indirectly, the board should be allowed to smolder a bit around the edges, providing delicious smoky flavor. (On the other hand, keep a spray bottle of water nearby in case the wood flames up too much.)

You don't need to flip your fish (salmon works especially well with the flavor of cedar). Cook it skin-side down, marinated in whatever suits you. Because the board is between fish and fire, it takes nearly double the regular cooking time; in the case of a salmon fillet that may be 15 minutes, time you can spend preparing a side veggie or salad. Remove the plank with an oven mitt, then slide it off onto a platter or serve it dramatically directly from the plank.

Laura Reiley can be reached at lreiley@tampabay.com or (727) 892-2293.

>>MODERATE

Halibut in Bamboo Steamer

Equipment: bamboo steamer, available at Asian groceries
or Williams-Sonoma

1 ¼ teaspoons finely peeled, grated fresh ginger

¼ teaspoon finely grated orange zest

2 tablespoons fresh orange juice

¼ teaspoon ground coriander

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil, plus more for baskets

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 teaspoons rice wine (mirin) or sherry

2 (about ¼ cup) scallions, finely chopped

Freshly ground pepper

2 fillets halibut or other meaty fish like red snapper (each 4 to 5 ounces, at least ¾ inch thick), skinned

6 shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, caps scored with an X

¾ pound edamame in shells

Sea or coarse salt

Stir ginger, orange zest and juice, coriander, oil, soy sauce, wine, and scallions in a medium bowl. Season with pepper. Add fish and mushrooms; turn to coat completely. Marinate 10 minutes.

Fill wok or large pot with about 1 inch of water. Bring to a boil. Brush surface of bamboo steamer with oil. In a multitier steamer, steam the fish and shiitakes in the bottom tier, the edamame above. With a larger one-level steamer, center the fish and mushrooms, surround with frozen or just-thawed edamame. Cover basket; carefully set into boiling water. Steam until fish is just cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes, checking occasionally to make sure water doesn't completely evaporate. Sprinkle edamame with salt. Serve in baskets or on plates.

Serves 2.

Source: Adapted from Martha Stewart Living

>>MODERATE

Grouper en Papillote With Tomatoes and Olives

Equipment: parchment paper

4 grouper fillets (6 ounces each)

1 tablespoon plus 4 teaspoons olive oil, divided

3 cloves garlic, 2 thinly sliced,
1 halved

teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 cup grape tomatoes, halved

2 tablespoons capers, drained

8 large, pitted kalamata olives, quartered

½ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 teaspoons dry white wine

4 teaspoons unsalted butter

8 fresh thyme sprigs

4 slices (½-inch-thick) ciabatta bread

Heat oven to 450 degrees. Fold four 15-inch-square pieces of parchment in half. Starting at fold of each piece, draw half a large heart shape. Cut along lines; open. Place 1 fish fillet next to crease on each piece of parchment. In a small skillet, warm 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. Saute sliced garlic and pepper flakes until garlic turns golden, 1 minute. Remove skillet from heat; stir in tomatoes, capers and olives. Sprinkle fish with salt and pepper. Divide tomato mixture among fish. Top each fillet with 2 teaspoon wine, 1 teaspoon butter and 2 thyme sprigs. Fold other half of parchment over fish. Starting at top of each parchment half-heart, make small, tight, overlapping folds along outside edge to seal packet; twist tail ends tightly to seal completely. Place packets on a large rimmed baking sheet; roast 8 minutes. Broil or toast ciabatta until golden; rub with garlic clove halves and brush with remaining 4 teaspoon oil. Transfer packets to plates. Slit tops with a knife; gently open. Serve 1 slice ciabatta with each packet.

Serves 4

Source: Adapted from Self

>>EASY

Cedar-Plank Salmon

Equipment: a cedar grilling plank (about 15 by 6 inches,
available now at grocery stores such as Publix)

2 tablespoons grainy mustard

2 tablespoons mild honey or pure maple syrup

1 teaspoon minced rosemary

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

Salt and pepper

1 (2-pound) salmon fillet with skin (1 ½ inches thick)

Soak cedar grilling plank in water to cover 2 hours, keeping it immersed.

Prepare grill for direct-heat cooking over medium-hot charcoal (medium-high heat for gas). Open vents on bottom and lid of charcoal grill. Stir together mustard, honey, rosemary, zest, and ½ teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Spread mixture on flesh side of salmon and let stand at room temperature 15 minutes. Put salmon on plank, skin side down (if salmon is too wide for plank, fold in thinner side to fit). Grill, covered with lid, until salmon is just cooked through and edges are browned, 13 to 15 minutes. Let salmon stand on plank 5 minutes before serving.

Serves 6.

Source: Gourmet

For cooking fish, use wood plank, steamer or parchment paper 10/09/12 [Last modified: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 1:53am]

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