In the plus column: a paycheck. In the minus column: Grownup clothes that sometimes necessitate pantyhose. It used to be the plus column contained this: a company lunchroom in which to grab a sandwich and talk about the weather with the deli guy. No more. It's not just the Times, it's the times — fewer companies have onsite restaurants.
That's why Lincoln Center in Westshore (the Humana building) should count its blessings. Lonni Whitchurch opened her first Lonni's in Dunedin in 1987, reaching five locations over time before selling the whole kit and most of the caboodle last year. But she clearly still had some sandwich-craft up her sleeve, setting up shop with Loon Lake, a small, unassuming space on the first floor of the attractive office complex.
In homage to the Land of 10,000 Lakes (that's Minnesota, from which Whitchurch hails), the bustling room has knotty pine walls and cedar shake, just a handful of tables and a sandwich menu with more than a few nods to Minnesota classics. Exhibit A: the Nuthatch sandwich, a piled-high beauty with a blue cheese pistachio spread, sliced turkey, roasted red peppers, lettuce and mayo ($7.49).
So why should the rest of us care that Lincoln Center is so blessed? Loon Lake delivers to Tampa's business district from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., and the parking lot has plenty of spots to zip in and grab a generous Greek salad ($7.59) outfitted with all the fixings, the best of which is a scoop of housemade red bliss potato salad, slightly sweet, slightly tangy (offered by itself for $3.49).
Order at the counter and try not to stare at the individually plastic-wrapped cookies on steroids. Fine, add in a raspberry white chocolate or a gorgeously homemade-tasting oatmeal raisin (both $2.29) to your order of a grilled turkey Reuben ($6.79). Tangy seeded rye, melted Swiss, sauerkraut and turkey slices, moistened with Russian dressing and pressed hard, should be enough to get you through your workday, but the cookie is insurance if the afternoon drags a little.
What distinguishes Loon Lake from the dozens of other sandwich spots servicing business-dense regions is twofold: affability and quality of ingredients. The people behind the counter know and like their customers; the chicken salad sandwich with almonds, grapes and a tarragon mayo ($6.99) tastes like something you'd pat yourself on the back for achieving at home. And it sure will make your cubicle mates jealous.
Laura Reiley can be reached at lreiley@sptimes.com or (727) 892-2293. Her blog, the Mouth of Tampa Bay, is at blogs.tampabay.com/dining. Reiley dines anonymously and unannounced. The Times pays all expenses. Advertising has nothing to do with selection for review or the assessment.
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Loon Lake Cafe
5401 W Kennedy Blvd., Tampa, (813) 289-5329; loonlakecafe.com
Cuisine: Sandwiches
Hours: 7:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Monday to Friday
Details: V, MC; no reservations; no alcohol
Prices: Sandwiches $4.59 to $7.99; salads $3.49 to $7.59
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