Wine of the Week: 2005 Irony Chardonnay

This week's wine is a knockout, whether paired with food or sipped for its own sake. The 2005 Irony Chardonnay (about $13 at wine shops) is a big, giddy Napa Valley powerhouse bursting with fruit and finesse.

The wonderful thing about this wine is that it manages to be creamy and bright at the same time. Tropical fruits jump out in front at first sniff and escalate with the first sip, then the symphony begins. Rich, creamy vanilla is tempered by fine mineral notes that keep it from stealing the show. Luscious green apple asserts itself next and is perfectly set off by nuanced citrus flavors, especially lemon. But wait, there's more. Is that caramelized pineapple? It is. And for perfect roundness, there's just the right touch of oak. There's a lot going on in this wine, and in lesser hands all that interplay of flavors, aromas and textures might end up a muddle. This wine not only succeeds brilliantly at harmonizing disparate notes but also takes an unexpected turn at the end and finishes cleanly, leaving the palate delighted, refreshed and ready for the next bite or sip.

Irony will partner beautifully with many summery foods. We paired it with a simple dish featuring chicken thighs baked with marinated artichoke hearts, chopped garlic and fresh rosemary. Absolutely divine!

Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.