Wine of the Week: Undone 2007 Dry Riesling

A clever label depicting a woman's torso in an unlacing corset won't hurt sales of Undone 2007 Dry Riesling (about $11 at big box stores), but there's much more to this lively minimalist than sex appeal. Although the lightest touch of honey on the tongue reminds us of this wine's origins in Germany's Rheinhessen region, it easily lives up to its advertising pitch: "unoaked, unadulterated, crisp, dry 'naked' flavor."

Undone opens with fresh, understated floral and citrus aromas as welcome as a cool breeze in July. The predominant treat for the palate is tart green apple that comes on with a gusto tempered by smooth pear and apricot flavors, lemon overtones, a trace of gooseberry for added astringency and a hint of ginger for spice. It finishes as crisply as it begins, making it a perfect summer wine, either as an aperitif or paired with a wide range of warm weather fare, from sushi or sashimi to tandoori chicken with cool, cucumbery raita and warm naan on the side.

Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.