Wine of the Week: Martín Códax 2007 Albariño

Spain's Rias Baixas wine region lies among the green folds of the Galician coast. Not far inland is the fabled Christian pilgrimage destination of Santiago de Compostela. Unlike much of Spain, the region enjoys ample rain and relatively high humidity. Its climate is mild with chilly weather limited largely to December and January. Its premier grape is Albariño, which produces a subtly robust, citrusy, lightly floral white wine that goes beautifully with food but also can't be beat for sipping in the shade on a warm afternoon.

The winery Bodegas Martín Códax makes wines only from the Albariño grape and only from grapes grown on its estates. Its Martín Códax 2007 Albariño (about $14 at wine shops and big box stores) is a great introduction to a wine that shows up with fair regularity on the lists of savvy wine bars and restaurants but too rarely makes it to home tables. It opens with a citrus snap underpinned by flavors of peach and pear and is sustained by bright, clean fruit through the finish.

We most recently enjoyed this wine with a goat cheese and arugula frittata, but the classic pairing is with fish and fowl. We find it especially tasty with those recipes that call for a rich sauce or for slow cooking in the oven with everything from pork sausage to clams to assertive greens like collards. Albariño is light and refreshing enough to cleanse the palate between bites and has enough body to stand up to muscular, full-flavored fare.

Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.