Wine of the week: Sokol Blosser Evolution, 12th edition

Sokol Blosser Winery's Evolution (about $19 at wine shops and big box stores) will delight you with its acrobatics. This crazy mixed-up blend from Oregon, styled simply an American White Wine, somersaults onto the tongue and lands with both feet, executes a few showy backflips complete with a twist and then dismounts with a big laugh, leaving your palate surprised, exhilarated and ready for anything.

This wine is not just complex and layered, it's astonishing. Waves of flavor come at you rapid fire as you sip: citrus, pear and tart apple with floral undertones, crisp acidity with a slightly sweet pineapple edge and an incredibly clean and refreshing finish, even soft whispers of leather and musk. For the record, the grapes blended for Evolution are Muller-Thurgau, White Riesling, Semillon, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Muscat Canelli, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Sylvaner. That they work together as flawlessly as they do is at least a minor miracle.

Given its assertive personality and idiosyncratic roots, you might be wondering what in the world this wine pairs with. The answer is darn near anything, from grilled fish to fruit salad to bacon and egg sandwiches. But let's approach the question from the other side of the equation. Let's say you're about to try a recipe for an Indian chicken thigh, sweet potato and banana curry rich with garlic and peppers. If, like us, you were stumped for an appropriate wine for such an exotic thing, we recommend the same solution that rescued us: Sokol Blosser Evolution, one of the few wines in the world as exuberant as this dish.

Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.