Wine of the Week: Hopler 2007 Gruner Veltliner

There is nothing better with an iced platter of fresh oysters than a good Gruner Veltliner from Austria. This crisp white perfectly complements the sea tang of the queen of the raw bar.

The Hopler 2007 Gruner Veltliner (about $13 at wine shops and big box stores) is a fine example of the grape's appeal. While the wine's signature green apple bite is somewhat muted in this bottle, it is still very much to the fore and is nicely accompanied by a pronounced citrus tingle and the freshness of green grass. It is a fairly delicate wine, outstanding as an aperitif or with shellfish or a light salad. Its versatility as a food wine is limited, but what it does it does well.

We tried to push the envelope, trying this wine first with a Sunday supper of cold baked ham, minted peas and asparagus tips, and sweet potato biscuits, but even this mild combo was too much. Then we had the bright idea of tempering the ham's assertiveness by combining small chunks of it with artichoke hearts and shallots in a frittata. Eureka! The eggs did the trick, taming the other ingredients and yielding a polite companion for this well-mannered wine.

Colette Bancroft is the Times' book editor; John Bancroft is a freelance writer on food, wine and travel.