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Bartenders vie in Bombay Sapphire contest; winner is from Ciro's Speakeasy

Kim Kraimer presented her Bombay Sapphire creation, complete with prosciutto-wrapped canary melon ball, in a contest by the ginmaker at Timpano Italian Chophouse in Tampa, where she tends bar. Twenty-seven bartenders took a shot at a spot in the nationals and in GQ.

JULIETTE LYNCH | Times

Kim Kraimer presented her Bombay Sapphire creation, complete with prosciutto-wrapped canary melon ball, in a contest by the ginmaker at Timpano Italian Chophouse in Tampa, where she tends bar. Twenty-seven bartenders took a shot at a spot in the nationals and in GQ.

TAMPA

Aaron Christiansen's magic ingredients included port wine, black peppercorns, ginger liqueur and a plum. Oh, and a little chunk of dry ice, which created the impression of a bubbling potion. "Visually, that's very overwhelming and appealing," he said.

Kim Kraimer, on the other hand, wanted to keep things "fairly simple." This, to her, meant combining a sweet South American canary melon, kumquats, ginger syrup and prosciutto. "Nothing too crazy," she said.

And Christine Misiura crafted a shrine of fruity concept art, filling the mouth of a martini glass with a large grapefruit slice and a peel rolled into the shape of a rose. It looks like a neon lily pad, and you're meant to sip through it. "The first time I made it, people were wondering, 'Why?' "

For the answer, you really had to be at Timpano Italian Chophouse on Aug. 1 for Bombay Sapphire's annual "Most Inspired Bartender" contest. The event brought together 27 inventive bartenders from around Central Florida, all vying for a spot in the ginmaker's national competition in Las Vegas in September. The winner will be featured in GQ magazine.

For the bartenders, it was a chance to experiment with fresh ingredients and curious combinations in a room full of like-minded mixologists.

And for the competitors from Tampa, it was a chance to showcase the unique flavors now flowing at a high-top table near you.

• • •

This was the third year Bombay Sapphire has held its Most Inspired Bartender contest in Tampa. The first year, it drew 18 bartenders and about 70 people. The second year, it drew 22 and 150. This year, 27 and 200.

"Tampa is at the forefront of the mixology revolution," said Gabriel Urrutia, a Bacardi representative who served as a judge in the contest.

That may seem like an overstatement, considering the mixology revolution has been going on for years in cities like New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco and Miami. But Urrutia's point is that bartenders in cities like Tampa — or Orlando or Phoenix or Houston — are inventing cocktails that could stand on menus at just about any speakeasy in the country.

These aren't your everyday gin and tonics. They're exquisitely crafted cocktails that can take 10 minutes or more to mix and pour. Some are fresh takes on drinks that debuted long before Prohibition. Competitors in the Bombay Sapphire contest were judged not only on the taste of their drink, but on technique, presentation and "charisma/inspiration."

"It's more like tasting a food," said Dawn Heidemann of the Ritz Ybor, who served as a blind-taste judge. "It's the end product of a recipe."

The cocktail porn on display at Timpano was proof of that. Contestants used everything from Australian ginger beer to flaming rosemary sprigs, from cantaloupe foam to Earl Grey tea. They spoke of experimenting with tarragon, pineapple leaves, caviar, A1 sauce and liquid nitrogen.

Dean Hurst of SideBern's, who won the contest in 2009, recently co-founded a chapter of the United States Bartenders Guild, dedicated to the "craft of mixology." Five of the group's six board members were in the contest.

"We all talked about our recipes; we all worked together," he said. "I've done a few competitions like these. I wanted to make sure they had everything they wanted: 'Do you have squeeze bottles?' 'Make sure you hold your shaker like this and your jigger like that.' That was very helpful. I'd rather it be more of an even playing field than just be about my drink and your drink."

• • •

In the end, the competition was nearly a clean Tampa sweep.

Hurst placed third with a tiki-inspired drink blending gin, fresh lemon juice, orgeat (an almond syrup) and muddled peach. He tied with Christiansen, the dry-ice-aided mixologist, who works at an Orlando club, Touch.

Coming in second was Danny Guess of Fly Bar and Restaurant in downtown Tampa, with a drink he called the Ruby Club: gin, rhubarb syrup, lemon juice and egg white. Using what looked like a medicine dropper, he dotted each one with a snaky row of barrel-aged bitters. He had been working on the recipe for two months, mostly for fun.

And taking the 2011 title was Bob Wagner of Ciro's Speakeasy and Supper Club in South Tampa. His drink was a floral riff on the Singapore Sling: gin, orgeat, heavy cream, fresh lemon juice, house-made lavender honey, a bar spoon of absinthe and a floater of creme de violette.

While the judges raved about Wagner's cocktail, it was his larger-than-life presentation that cinched his place in the winner's circle.

"It's important to understand cocktails and make great drinks. But a bartender's more than just a person who can make great drinks. We're onstage, basically. We're hosting a party, sitting at the bar. You have to be able to entertain the guests," Wagner said.

Jay Cridlin can be reached at jcridlin@tampabay.com.

Bartenders vie in Bombay Sapphire contest; winner is from Ciro's Speakeasy 08/09/11 [Last modified: Tuesday, August 9, 2011 5:30am]

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