Wine of the week: 2003 Boots Grenache

"I am fascinated by the nuances and subtleties of grenache," declares Kellermeister winemaker Trevor Jones. It shows in his downright gorgeous 2003 Boots Grenache (about $16 at wine shops and big-box stores), a stunner from South Australia's Barossa Valley.

This is a much more complex and structured grenache than many, at least those at this price point. That is evident immediately in its heady aroma, compounded of ripe blackberry and rich chocolate with just a hint of something sweetly floral, maybe elderberry or, as the winemaker suggests, violets. The complexity really ramps up after you've swirled this purple beauty in the glass and sipped. Red currant, black cherry and chocolate come on full force with a nice kick of black pepper and nuanced leather undertones. The light, bright top notes one expects in a grenache are present but the body is fuller, warmer and more mouth-filling. Soft tannins accentuate this difference. The finish is clean and dry.

We liked this one a lot in concert with a cabbage, leek and feta gratin asserted by a piquant mustard cream sauce, but it also would be swell with cheeseburgers, pizza and mac and cheese, as well as on its own.

By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelancer specializing in food, wine and travel.