Wine of the Week: 2006 Clos LaChance Black-Chinned Syrah

The 2006 Clos LaChance Black-Chinned Syrah (about $18 at wine shops and wine-savvy markets) is a bold and full-bodied wine sourced from the winemaker's estate vineyard in San Martin on California's Central Coast. Its name comes from the species of hummingbird that polices the vines, which is charming but wouldn't mean a thing if the deep garnet contents of the bottle weren't so eminently drinkable.

It's customary to speak of a wine's aroma and taste in terms of something other than the grapes from which it is made. In this kicky but balanced syrah the vinified grape itself provides the dominant flavor notes. Having said that, those good grapes also can be characterized as offering blackberry and hints of coffee and black pepper to the nose and all three plus raisin on the tongue. The combination yields a rich and substantial syrah with full-blown round tannins giving it both depth and a delightfully complex long finish with grace notes of coffee and cocoa right at the end.

This wine will hold its own with many different robust dishes but our vote is to pair it with a cheesy lasagne or, better yet, pasta with a hearty Bolognese sauce.

By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.