Wine of the week: 2006 Santa Alicia Reserva Carménère

We've written before about the carmenere grape, which thrives now most prominently in Chile despite its provenance as one of the six original red grapes of Bordeaux. This week we feature another outstanding and well-priced Chilean wine made from this noble grape, the 2006 Santa Alicia Reserva Carménère (about $8 at wine savvy specialty markets and supermarkets).

The first clue to this wine's intensity is its deep violet color, a suggestion quickly confirmed by its deep aromas of dark fruit, rich earth and a hint of smoke. We are tempted to describe this wine in its first moments in the glass as brooding, but that might give the wrong idea. It quickly opens up to reveal a beguiling complexity compounded of black plum, dark chocolate, ripe cherry, burnished leather and concentrated spice. Assertive tannins are at the fore initially but give way to a long, smooth, lingering finish. Its eight months in American oak, which precedes another eight months of aging in the bottle, is not at all a dominant taste factor but shows in the wine's polished harmonies.

As you would expect, this wine stands up nicely to boldly spiced and sauced foods. Bring on the big red sauces, the curries and rich meats. We tasted it in combination with house-made basil and garlic lamb sausages from our favorite meat counter, served with steamed collards and warm bread, and were absolutely knocked out by the result.

By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.