Wine of the week: 2006 Snoqualmie Columbia Valley Syrah

This week's wine, the 2006 Snoqualmie Columbia Valley Syrah (about $10 to $12 at wine shops and wine savvy markets), is one of those troupers that delivers the goods without fanfare or fuss.

Hailing from the dry east side of Washington's Cascade Mountains, this syrah is crafted for maximum amiability by winemaker Joy Anderson, who also is known for her line of "Naked" organically grown and vinified varietals.

This chummy red is terrific on its own but also would nicely complement Thanksgiving dinner, whether you're serving turkey and all the trimmings or opting for something like a Tuscan pork roast with plenty of rosemary and garlic.

Anderson's 2006 syrah is friendly but it's not shy. On the heels of a fruity, slightly herbal nose it opens almost instantly on the tongue, showering the taste buds with waves of fruit, especially blueberry and blackberry and a bit of cherry. What makes the wine worth a rave is its soft tannins, which lend it just the right measure of complexity and structure to follow through with a satisfying finish. The new oak in which the wine was aged for 12 months before bottling shows but is not at all pushy. A little whiff of smoke adds a touch of mystery and extends the range of appropriate food pairings. If you want to smoke your Thanksgiving bird instead of roasting it, this wine will rise to the challenge.

By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.