Wine of the week: 2008 Francis Coppola Emerald Label Pinot Grigio

As this long, hot summer wears on we continue to crave only the lightest and most refreshing beverages. Among the lightest of white wines are the pinot grigios, little wispy things with all the heft of an elusive cool breeze in August. The best of these weightless wines still manage to deliver on taste, and the 2008 Francis Coppola Emerald Label Pinot Grigio (about $13 at wine shops and supermarkets) is one of those.

A faint floral aroma is detectable at first sniff but offers no good reason to slow down and inhale. Instead, get right to the first well-chilled sip. Lime, mint and apricot lead the way into an admirably clean and crisp palate accented by light floral notes and underpinned by a subtle minerality. The finish is dry but scented with those top note fruits.

All of this adds up to a wine that is zephyr light but not anemic. We would pair it with decidedly casual handheld summer treats like Baja fish tacos or cold fried chicken from the picnic hamper.

By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.