Wine of the week: 2008 Lucky Star Chardonnay

We love to find summery white wines with backbone for less than $10. The 2008 Lucky Star Chardonnay (about $9 at wine-savvy markets) fills that prescription perfectly.

This is a California blend of 97 percent chard and 3 percent sauvignon blanc from vineyards on the state's North Coast and near Clarksburg. The '08 growing season was marked by early bud break followed by drought and wildfires, which combined to produce a smaller than usual harvest and smaller, more intensely flavored grapes. The result is a full-flavored wine of nicely balanced acidity and sugar.

The nose is classic chardonnay: lots of vanilla tempered by pear and apple. Vanilla is prominent on the tongue, too, and that combined with the flavor of ripe pear give it a lush, buttery mouth feel. Tangerine, nectarine and lime add crispness. The finish is not long but it is satisfying, ending on a light but distinct note of green tea.

This sturdy chard will sip well all on its own on a warm summer evening, or pair it with seasonal fare like a plate of cool green grapes and white cheddar or a good old grouper sandwich with fresh sliced tomatoes and onion.

By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.