We return this week to two of our touchstones: Kermit Lynch, the wine importer with a truffle hound's supertalented nose, and flint, the first quality that pops to mind when we think of white Burgundies and Bordeaux. The 2009 Bourgogne Chardonnay "La Soeur Cadette" (about $17 at wine shops), has Lynch's fingerprints all over it, and every sip is anchored in the dry minerality of flint.
On the nose this subtle chard — so much subtler than American versions — offers light meadow flowers and a touch of pear. On the tongue, pear is joined by grass, a bit of ginger and maybe even a touch of butterscotch. The mouth feel is as silky as can be. A little white tea chimes in on the satisfyingly dry finish.
Keep this delightfully understated wine in mind with stone crab season coming right up (it opens Oct. 15) or enjoy it now as an aperitif or paired with shrimp summer rolls or a classic omelette aux fines herbes.
By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel. For an index and archive of reviews, go to pictograph.com.