This week's wine wears our personal triple crown: It is a lovely example of a white Bordeaux; it pairs beautifully with seafood raw or cooked; and it is made from organically grown grapes. The 2011 Les Hauts de Lagarde Blanc, a blend of 60 percent sauvignon blanc with semillon sourced from vineyards in southwestern France, brings about $14 at wine-savvy markets.
The best white Bordeaux wines are characterized by a flinty minerality. They taste of the limestone soil in which the vines are rooted. This one is no exception to that rule, but, by blending with semillon, the winemaker has brought not sweetness but a very pleasing roundness to the taste and light floral and citrus overtones to the bouquet.
On the tongue, that signature minerality is carried on a lively, fresh, crisp float of citrus (especially lime), white flowers and understated pear. It drinks ultra-clean and refreshing all the way through, which is what makes it such a fine companion to fish and shellfish. It also would deliver a delightful wakeup call to the taste buds as an aperitif.
By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel. For an index and archive of reviews, go to pictograph.com.