If tonight is your night for Thai takeout, you're reading this none too soon. Quick, while there's still time, visit your local wine shop to buy and chill a couple of bottles of Columbia Crest's 2006 Two Vines Vineyard 10 White Wine (about $9).
This delectable, very fruit forward blend of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and semillon from Washington state will pair sublimely with spicy Thai specialties. And since summer is upon us here in the Sunshine State, its cooling floral aromas and clean snap will be welcome with any simple light fare as well, from cold roast chicken to fresh fish on the grill. It also is perfect for patio sipping before or after dinner.
This wine is a masterful example of blending. The chardonnay's vanilla overtones are present but they are gentled by the pronounced apricot, pear and apple of the sauv blanc and just the right sugar edge from the semillon, which lends this mostly dry blend a certain mellowness.
Don't be fooled by this wine's modest price. It is approachable and ready to drink now, but its structure and nuanced balance of flavors are quite sophisticated. Each of its grape varieties was vinified separately before blending, mostly in stainless steel to bring out the fruit, but a small quantity underwent malolactic (secondary) fermentation to enhance body, yielding a real wine and a real bargain.
Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.