Groans or grins at the name on the label are deserved, but the cause of the puns and the wine inside are legitimate.
Kent Rosenblum, who founded the winery and is a consulting winemaker, is also a veterinarian and devoted dog lover. He chipped in $40,000 of the proceeds from the first year of the Bone project to Paws for the Cause, which trains animals to help the disabled.
The wine is mostly syrah and zinfandel, mourvedre and carignane, Rosenblum favorites that borrow from the Rhone more than Beaune or chateau country cabs. It's tail-wagging friendly in texture, with a nose and mouth full of cherries, spice and smoke. Meaty, but not a chew toy.
(By the way, the waggish South Africans who paired animal puns and Rhone grapes together in Goats do Roam have two new groaners: Bored Doe, a mock Medoc, with an etching of a goat and a castle on a bottle of cab/merlot, and the Goatfather, made of Italian grapes grown in South Africa.)
Availability: $15 in select wine stores and supermarkets.
Chris Sherman, Times staff writer