Do you have a sweet tooth? Is dessert your favorite part of a meal? Then Graham's Six Grapes Porto (about $20 at wine shops and big box stores) is for you.
This toothsome dessert in a glass from a respected Portuguese house weighs in at a hefty 19.5 percent alcohol content, which is typical of fortified wines, but the alcohol is not the dominant note either on the nose or on the tongue. Instead, those six grapes come shining through.
At first sniff rich caramel dominates, then comes cassis, dark chocolate and herbs. It's a warm introduction to a warm young wine that opens on the palate like dark bread fresh from the toaster and spread not with jam but with unadulterated fruit. Intense dark berries come to the fore, richly accented with equally intense chocolate. Those who prefer tawny or vintage ports will find this affable youngster too sweet by half, but as an introduction to the pleasures of after-dinner sipping this wine is a good bet.
Drink it alone as dessert itself or pair it with a muscular cheese like an aged blue, perhaps accompanied by a handful of walnuts and a fresh pear. If you're up for a big sweet finale, drink it with a flourless dark chocolate cake or chocolate pate.
By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.