The words extra dry on the label of a sparkling wine usually mean the wine will be on the sweet side, as opposed to the considerably drier wine labeled brut. In the case of Mionetto Prosecco Treviso (about $14 at wine savvy markets), the extra dry label is misleading.
It's true that it boasts a delightfully creamy mouth feel and that about midway along the palate the flavor will remind many of cream soda, but this wine, made from organically grown grapes, is crisp and light with gorgeous, persistent small bubbles. In short, it is another of those perfect summer wines we value so highly in the hottest months.
The winemaker describes the nose of this sparkler as redolent of elderflower, but we think Meyer lemon is closer to the mark. It teases the nose as much as does the first burst of bubbles and sets the tone for refreshing sipping all the way through to a scrumptious clean and fresh finish. At mid palate, lemon is joined by a bit of white peach and a very understated smidge of vanilla — hence, the cream soda overtones.
Pair this lovely prosecco with seared scallops, ceviche or fettucine alfredo, or enjoy it as a perfect sundowner or aperitif.
By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel. For an index and archive of reviews, go to pictograph.com.