Thursday, December 14, 2017
Travel

On the Camino de Santiago, Day 11: No vino, no Camino: Camaraderie and wine go hand-in-hand at this albergue

Day 11: Azofra to Grañon – 21.9 km – 7 hours

"Kelly" / "United States" / "Santiago" / "Complete"

Tú nombre. / De dónde eres. / A donde quieres ir. / Una palabra para describir, como te sientes en este momento. En este mismo momento.

First name. / Where you're from. / Where you plan to go. / One word to describe how you feel at this time. In this very moment.

At the Albergue Parroquial San Juan Bautista, a group of peregrinos had gathered in the belfry of the church for meditation and sharing as the sun was setting. The candlelight grew bright as the stone room grew darker.

We each had the opportunity to share our thoughts, hopes, fears, motives for taking on this emotional, physical, spiritual challenge. I listened as men and women opened their hearts and spoke freely - in Hungarian, Spanish, Italian, Korean, English - to the room, to their god, to their pilgrim family.

I held the candle, set it down in front of me, watched as it flickered in the cool, yet comforting draft, and waited. I chose to share silence.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Welcome to Albergue San Juan Bautista. "Make yourself at home."

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Grañon's public pool. Freezer pizza and a full bar.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

A local father and son playing table tennis.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Thomas (England) taking on a local family in an epic table tennis tournament.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

A Spanish lesson from one pilgrim to another.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Everyone pitched in to help prepare dinner.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

The hardest part was getting it downstairs from the second story!

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Yes, we all rapped the blessing before the meal.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Our incredible volunteer hospitaleros made a few announcements before dinner in Spanish, English and, thanks to a South Korean pilgrim, in Korean.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

The hospitaleros kept saying "No vino, no Camino," which quickly became the mantra of the evening. That catch phrase, along with "Chin Chin" ("Cheers"), was heard many times throughout and after the meal.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

The view from above.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

A single hand reaches out to one of the many well-fed stray cats of Grañon.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

From left, Donald (United States), Barbara (Canada), Keaki (Japan) and me.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Barbara (Canada) and Keaki (Japan). That is not just Coca-Cola, it's Kalimotxo, a delicious cocktail of red wine and Coke.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Francois (France), Donald (United States), me, Barbara (Canada) and a peregrino from Italy sing along to Michael Jackson's "We Are the World" while another pilgrim plays guitar.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Barbara (Canada), Donald (United States), me and a fellow pilgrim.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

A Camino-themed stained glass window from the church at the albergue.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

My Camino passport after 11 days.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

This stamp comes from the Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi, 29, of St. Petersburg, FL., is a teacher at Country Day School in Largo, FL. She is currently in Europe walking the 500-mile Camino De Santiago. She is sending the Times a daily blog post about her solo journey, which is expected to last 33 days. You can e-mail Kelly at [email protected], though you might not hear back until after she returns.

Read the post for Day 12 of Kelly's Camino.

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