Thursday, July 19, 2018
Travel

On the Camino de Santiago, Day 16: An evening of wine and song transcends all language barriers for these travelers

Day 16: Castrojeriz to Villarmentero de Campos: 35 km, 10.5 hours. Total for Days 1-16 = 360 km (224 miles)

Three of us - Tokyo, Italy and Florida, as Italy lovingly named us - walked into the tiny town of Villarmentero de Campos together. Upon seeing the albergue, I immediately knew it was well worth the 10.5 hour walk. We walked past hammocks hanging under shady trees, drums and guitars waiting to be played and a slack line tightly situated between two strong trees. Geese, roosters, cats and dogs welcomed us - some with gentle sniffing, others with uncertain honks and squawks.

It felt like a place I belonged.

After a long, hard nap face down on the comfy sofa in the common area, I devoured the best meal I've had yet, prepared by the hospitaleros for a small group of us. We ate, we drank, we laughed. And afterwards, we sang, a lot, while Pablo (Spain) played guitar.

The more wine, the better we sounded. We sang until we struggled to read the lyrics in Pablo's book, chatting in between demands for more guitar.

We stayed awake far too late talking about the things you only talk about far too late. We started as five and slowly lost one at a time until there were only two left, Pablo and me. After a couple shaky attempts on the slackline and a bit of starry-eyed yoga, I tucked myself into my bunk and enjoyed the best night's sleep I've had yet.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

A place to rest at the highest point of the day, Alto de Mostelares.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Coming down from the Meseta. I zig-zagged all the way down to spare my knees as much as possible.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Sunflowers and fields in Itero del Castillo.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Ivy-covered farmhouse.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Río Pisuerga.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Frómista supermarket snack resupply.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

A welcome break from the constant sun.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Keaki and I picked up an Italian pilgrim on the way into Villarmentero de Campos. She spoke little English and charmingly referred to herself at Italy, Keaki as Tokyo and me as Florida.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Italy accidentally left her stone - intended to be placed at the foot of the Cruz de Ferro - at home, but was given this rosary in St. Jean Pied de Port to hold her sorrows.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

After the most delicious dinner at one of my favorite albergues yet, four of us sang along as Pablo (Spain) played guitar.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Pablo played for hours as we sang.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Pablo's songbook, filled with music and lyrics in French, Spanish, English, Italian and Portuguese.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Italy and Italy.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Tokyo, Florida, Spain and Italy.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Tokyo

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

A fellow pilgrim, at left, carefully walks across the slack line, with a little help from her family.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

This rooster was limping slowly around the albergue all evening, much like the rest of us.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

Fellow peregrina Maria (from ???) giving me some advice on the pain in the tendons near my knees, ankles and shins.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

My Camino passport after 16 days.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi – Special to the Times

The stamp for Albergue Amanecer de Villarmentero de Campos, one of my favorite albergues so far.

Kelly Osborne-Rozgonyi, 29, of St. Petersburg, FL., is a teacher at Country Day School in Largo, FL. She is currently in Europe walking the 500-mile Camino De Santiago. She is sending the Times a daily blog post about her solo journey, which is expected to last 33 days, ending on August 4, 2017. You can e-mail Kelly at [email protected], though you might not hear back until after she returns.

Read the post for Day 17 of Kelly's Camino.

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