In the gardens of Baghdad, green is the color of peace

BAGHDAD — Khalil Abbas has worked with plants since he was 7 years old, and his tree nursery could be a barometer of Iraq's changing fortunes. During the 1970s, when Iraqis enjoyed a flood of oil money, customers flocked to him to supply elaborate gardens, buying plants imported from Jordan and Syria, Abbas said. Then after the American invasion of 2003, business came to a halt.

"When the situation was dangerous, people from other neighborhoods were unable to come here, and we couldn't go there," he said.

On a recent morning Abbas, 58, sat in an office that was surrounded by sicus palms, ficus trees, gardenias, fruit trees and other plants. As security has improved, he said, people have been buying plants again, coming to the nursery in the Jadriya neighborhood not only from other parts of Baghdad but also from around the country. Business has multiplied eightfold since 2005.

In its middle-class neighborhoods, Baghdad is a city of surprising topiary sculptures: Leafy ficus trees are carved in geometric spirals, balls, arches and squares, as if to impose order on a chaotic sprawl. The trees provide a startling counterpoint of color and contour to the uniformly tan and rectilinear houses and walls surrounding them.

"This is our kingdom, our home," said Mohammed al-Khalidy, an electrical engineer, standing in his garden, where ficus trees carved like deconstructed snowmen flank the street. "This is where we have our relaxation. There is no safe location where we can go."

Even during the high periods of sectarian violence, Khalidy said, he and his family entertained guests in the garden. "Of course," he said. "What can we do?"