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Smaller, health-conscious portions prompt sales declines in school cafeterias

 
Land O’Lakes High School student Calvin Crino reaches for his 6-inch sandwich — a double portion of the 3-inch sandwiches that meet the latest federal nutrition guidelines. Some schools report falling sales have hurt cafeterias’ bottom lines.
Land O’Lakes High School student Calvin Crino reaches for his 6-inch sandwich — a double portion of the 3-inch sandwiches that meet the latest federal nutrition guidelines. Some schools report falling sales have hurt cafeterias’ bottom lines.
Published Oct. 26, 2014

Sophomore John Benson peered at the sandwich bar through a glass shield, pointing to the ingredients he wanted on his made-to-order sub.

He got the ham, honey mustard, mayo, lettuce and tomatoes. Pickles and cheese weren't an option: Too much sodium, according to federal rules.

Then he told the Land O'Lakes High School cafeteria worker not to cut the sandwich in two. He'd pay for each half of the 6-incher as separate items, to avoid breaking newly implemented nutrition guidelines.

The government-sized 3-inch portion was simply too small.

"I have football, so I don't get home until 6," Benson said, while waiting to pay for his 10:30 a.m. lunch. A 3-inch sub "definitely wasn't enough."

Complaints about the size and type of snacks and single-item offerings in school cafeterias have taken their toll on school district budgets.

Changes made this year as a result of the Healthy, Hunger-Free Kids Act of 2010 — championed by first lady Michelle Obama and approved by Congress — include smaller portions and the removal of several popular choices, including some cookies, drinks and even sandwich fixings.

The result: Lower sales of items that traditionally have bolstered cafeterias' bottom lines.

"Our a la carte sales are a concern," said Mary Kate Harrison, food services director for Hillsborough County schools. "In our high schools, we are down in total sales 37 percent."

Some students have migrated to full-plate lunches, which cost less and provide larger portions, Harrison said. But she doubted the increase in meals sold would offset the a la carte decline.

Pinellas schools are seeing the same scenario. Choices such as fried french fries disappeared this fall without a suitable replacement.

"Our a la carte is down, but our meals are up," food and nutrition supervisor Catherine Gerard said.

Pasco County School Board members and administrators last week denounced the restrictions as "federal overreach" and "absurdity," questioning how a one-size-fits-all calorie count could work for students with widely differing body types. At Land O'Lakes High, cafeteria workers reported seeing more lunch bags in trash cans, as students bring in more outside food to fill up.

Some kids are having pizza delivered to school, board member Cynthia Armstrong said.

"I thought this was supposed to be Let's Move," chairwoman Alison Crumbley said, referring to Michelle Obama's healthy kids initiative. "It's Let's Starve."

Federal officials said they've heard the complaints. They came when stricter rules took hold for school meals in 2012, and again when the new snack guidelines kicked in July 1.

But don't look for any quick fixes.

"Any time a significant program change is implemented, there will be challenges. Change does not come easy to everyone," U.S. Food and Nutrition Services southeast spokesman Johnathan Monroe said via email.

"Some schools are adapting to the new standards more easily than others, and efforts are under way to ensure that the new, healthier meals, as well as the service environment, are appealing to students," Monroe said. "We will continue to monitor and evaluate the progress of Smart Snacks standards before changes will be implemented."

Some school districts have dropped out of the federally subsidized meals program. That's not the preferred path for Tampa Bay area districts, which have large percentages of students who receive free meals.

Instead, they're turning to marketing to convince students that the new, healthier options are worth the price.

Pasco food and nutrition director Julie Hedine said her cafeterias have shrunk portions to meet the rules, but let kids buy more than one.

Harrison said Hillsborough schools are considering a similar idea. They might also increase the frequency of more popular items but in smaller portions, she said.

She stressed that she did not oppose healthier food choices, calling some of the new rules "wonderful."

But as regulations tighten with each year, they're headed to the point where a hamburger would have to be sold without the bun, and kids could have half the usual amount of milk, just to meet sodium requirements. That makes school cafeterias noncompetitive, she said.

That's particularly true in schools that serve higher income families, where kids don't rely on school lunch.

"We cannot regulate what comes from home," Gerard said.

Students are starting to adjust in Pasco schools, where the decrease in daily sales from year to year began to slow as the second month of classes began.

Land O'Lakes High junior Tyler Pitcher even bought a "too small" 3-inch sub, and said he expected it to fill him up.

"I already had two cheeseburgers," he said.

Contact Jeffrey S. Solochek at jsolochek@tampabay.com or (813) 909-4614. Follow @jeffsolochek.