Sunday, April 22, 2018
News Roundup

Flavorful, succulent skirt steak makes a quick and delicious dinner on the grill

Skirt steak isn't winning any beauty pageants. It's a long, lanky, awkward contender for your grill. You won't be able to give it those pronounced crosshatched grill lines, and its flat shape gives you thin, squiggly slices rather than nice, wide planks. If you want pretty and iconic, splurge on a rib or strip steak.

But for a weeknight dinner when you want a deep, beefy taste and succulent texture, you can't get a better steak than skirt. It even trumps flank steak, my former go-to for throwing on the grill.

What flank and skirt steaks have in common are their brawny, mineral flavor and loose-knit flesh, which is ideal for absorbing marinade. While both are sliced from the underbelly of the cow, skirt steak has the advantage of being richer and more marbled with fat; that means you use marinade for flavor only, rather than relying on it to tenderize the meat. (That's not the case with leaner flank steak.)

When I'm pressed for time, I'll often just unwrap my skirt steak, pat it down with salt and pepper and throw it onto the grill. It needs nothing more.

In this recipe, I rub down the meat with a classic basil-flecked herb paste, heavy on the garlic. If you have the time, you should marinate your meat the day before you plan to cook it. This gives it plenty of time to soak up the flavors. But you can also just slather on the herb paste as you're getting ready to cook.

A word about the grill: If you have one, use it. There's simply no better way to get a deep char on the ample surface of a skirt steak. If you don't, you can cook the meat in batches in a menacingly hot cast-iron pan, as long as you open the windows and turn off the smoke alarm first. Or try it under the broiler, positioning the steak as close to the flames as possible without touching them.

Whatever your heat source, pull the steak off once the center hits rare to medium-rare. Don't veer into medium-well territory with this cut or you risk the steak turning chewy and tough.

Finally, slice the meat across the grainy muscle fibers at a 45-degree angle, rather than straight up and down. Not only will this give you attractive slices, it will also maximize tenderness.

If you want glamor, grill a big, pretty rib-eye.

But in the categories of succulence, taste and cost, skirt steak takes the crown, no contest.

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