Monday, April 23, 2018
Health

Blini with caviar bring good taste to any Oscar party

By SARA MOULTON

Associated Press

Watching the Oscars, like the Super Bowl, has become almost an unofficial holiday, an occasion when tens of millions of us get together for an old-fashioned TV viewing party, complete with abundant food and drink.

But the two events require rather different menus. An Oscar party calls for slightly more elevated fare, and I can think of no hors d'oeuvres more appropriate than blini topped with caviar.

Back in the early '80s, I worked at a restaurant in New York that served great buckwheat blini (basically, tiny savory pancakes) topped with osetra caviar and creme fraiche. The blini recipe was pretty involved, and not the healthiest choice. The batter called for both yeast and whipped cream.

For my Oscars party, I wanted to develop a simpler, leaner version of that pancake, but I had a hard time finding buckwheat flour. Instead, I came up with a flavorful alternative using whole wheat flour and buttermilk. All I had to do was adapt one of the zillion recipes for buttermilk pancakes made with white flour.

I also was happy to swap in buttermilk, which is low in fat, for the heavy cream we used to use.

Be forewarned, though, that this batter is thicker than your usual pancake batter. I managed to lighten it up when I was testing it by adding more buttermilk, but decided finally that doing so masked the taste of the wheat. So I kept it as is. By the way, be careful not to over-mix this batter; it'll turn out tough. Better to take it easy; it's okay if there are a few lumps in there.

As for toppings, I decided more is better. The result is not simply a tasty little pancake, but a tasty little pancake topped with smoked trout (or smoked salmon, if you prefer), plus the caviar of your choice (I'm partial to the color and pop of salmon roe), plus yogurt flavored with horseradish and lemon, and finally, at the summit, sprigs of fresh dill.

You can serve these on a platter, already assembled, or allow your guests to build their own perfect bites by wrapping the blini in a cloth to keep them warm, and serving them alongside little bowls of the toppings. By the end of the night, you might end up with an Oscar of your own. (Oscar coverage begins at 7 p.m. Sunday on ABC.)

Sara Moulton was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows. She stars in public TV's "Sara's Weeknight Meals" and has written three cookbooks, including "Sara Moulton's Everyday Family Dinners."

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