By SARA MOULTON
Even though fruit and cheese tend to go together like soup and sandwich, the first time I saw watermelon and feta cheese paired up on a menu it struck me as very odd.
Apples and cheddar? Sure. Pears and Stilton? You know it. But I was sure that watermelon was much too watery to stand up to the bold flavor of feta, no matter that everyone tends to love the interplay of sweet and salt in general, and that the combo is hugely popular in Egypt, Israel and throughout the Balkans.
Well, those folks are right and I was dead wrong. Watermelon and feta are a great match — and they are at the center of this salad.
These days there are options to monstrous-size watermelon. First, of course, we can buy it in pieces and sometimes by the slice. Secondly, there are now littler guys — seedless watermelons — so called because they contain only tender little edible seeds, much like the seeds in a "seedless" cucumber. The user-friendly new packaging aside, I also appreciate watermelon's healthfulness. The aptly-named edible is in fact 92 percent water by weight, which is at the core of its unique ability to hydrate us. Finally — and duh! — it's delicious, and particularly refreshing when accented with a spritz of citrus.
With the watermelon, feta and cucumber in place, I filled out the salad with some dark bitter greens — namely arugula — and fresh herbs. You're welcome to substitute watercress for the arugula, and any one of your favorite herbs for the mint and cilantro. As for the onion, there's a way — if you have a little extra time — to abbreviate the lingering smell of it on your breath. Just soak the slices in a strainer set in a bowl of ice water for 15 minutes. Then drain and dry it and add it to the salad. The whole process not only tamps down onion breath, it also makes the little rascals crispier and crunchier, too.
The grilled pork tenderloin here plays the same role as the chicken or shrimp added to a Caesar salad — it turns a side dish into a meal. By the way, the tenderloin is one of the leanest cuts of pork. And so long as you don't overcook it — and give it a bit of a rest before slicing — it will be tender and juicy.
The dressing teams up feta and buttermilk. And the feta is so flavorful — and its texture so pleasurable — that I crumbled some extra onto the finished salad. At the end, you'll add some crunch in the form of homemade baked whole-wheat pita croutons. These are so easy to make, I never bother with the packaged varieties, which are usually deep-fried and loaded with fat.
Voila, the perfect summer meal in a bowl. Refreshing and filling.