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When it comes to skin products, less is more

Dr. Dornechia Carter, a Dallas area dermatologist, says she has had patients try several unusual methods in their quest to be all-natural. • "People can be very inventive with what they put on their face," she says. "I've been surprised at what people have tried." • The problem is, just because a skin-care product is labeled natural or organic doesn't mean it's right for you. • She says she has had patients use lime to exfoliate their faces, but the sun can cause a blistering reaction to lime on the skin. • "It's hard because I tell people, 'Poison ivy is natural!' And people don't use that," she says. • Kimberly Wilson, who practices naturopathy in Plano, Texas, agrees. "Just because you're using something natural doesn't mean it's the right thing for you, but there is much less potential of causing future damage." • What does work? We asked for their best advice on skin-care products. Here's what they said:

Don't overdo it

Carter says the main issue with her patients isn't what's in their products. It's that there are too many products.

"A lot of patients will come in and bring the products they use," she says. "That's very helpful, but what happens is they have these huge bags of stuff. They'll pour it out on the counter, and it'll be 15 different products.

"When patients ask me what I use, I say I use a face wash, a moisturizer and a tretinoin-based acne product," she says. "If I don't keep it simple, how do I ask patients to do things that are so complicated?"

Give it time

Carter says another issue is that people don't use a product long enough. "They're looking for something that fixes their skin next week. You really should give it six weeks to see if it's going to work for you."

Watch what you eat

Wilson says many skin issues start from within. She urges patients to eat more vegetables and avoid fried foods. She also says patients should limit the amount of animal products they eat because they're harder for the body to eliminate.

Know your sunscreen

Carter and Wilson both say sunscreen is a critical component of skin care, but if patients are having reactions to it, they recommend products with titanium or zinc oxide.

Carter notes that some people have had reactions to propylene glycol and parabens, but she says they're not necessarily bad.

Wilson says she typically has patients avoid parabens, which she says have the ability to mimic estrogen and have a weak correlation to the onset of early puberty.

She sends patients to the Skin Deep Cosmetics Database run by the Environmental Working Group, which rates thousands of products on their potential irritants and problems (ewg.org/skindeep).

Know yourself

Wilson tells patients to be mindful of their allergies and what ingredients are already affecting their bodies. For example, if a patient has celiac disease and isn't eating gluten, it shouldn't be in the patient's skin-care or makeup products, either.

What to buy? Carter says consumers shouldn't be afraid to purchase products at a drugstore or a dermatologist's office.

Some over-the-counter brands she recommends include Cetaphil, Cerave, Aveeno and Neutrogena.

For acne, she recommends tretinoin-based products, such as prescription Retin A, that also are approved for anti-aging benefits and to minimize fine lines and wrinkles.

The over-the-counter versions with retinol, such as Oil of Olay's Regenerist line, are not as strong as what a doctor can prescribe, but Carter says the moisturizing benefits may help.

She says coconut oil is a fine moisturizer for the hair and the body, but she doesn't recommend it or shea butter for the face because the pores are much more sensitive, which can lead to acne.

Wilson says she likes DeVita products, which can be found at Whole Foods. She uses several DeVita items, including the aloe vera exfoliating cleanser, rose oil toner and a sunscreen moisturizer.

"When patients are first starting out on their journey to get rid of toxins, I will send them to Whole Foods. They do a fair amount of scrutiny with the products they sell," Wilson says. "But it's like I tell my patients who are diabetic: Whole Foods also sells some really yummy cakes, but they're not necessarily good for you."

Ask for help

Carter says the most important component to taking care of your skin is getting good advice from a board-certified dermatologist.

"Natural is not necessarily better, more is not necessarily better," she says. "If we keep it simple and make sure we're wearing moisturizer and sunscreen, things will be taken care of."

When it comes to skin products, less is more 07/24/14 [Last modified: Thursday, July 24, 2014 5:22pm]

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