By SARA MOULTON
No matter how unimpeachable whole-wheat pasta is in terms of nutritional cred, I've always found it off-putting.
Sure, it has more fiber and whole-grain nutrition. But it always struck me as rather spineless and dull. And as someone whose culinary credo is that food can be scrumptious and healthy, I wasn't about to eat whole-wheat pasta for its nutritional benefits alone.
Happily, several brands recently have developed very respectable lines of 100 percent whole-wheat pasta. If you haven't lately, you might want to taste a few of them to decide which is your favorite.
Once you've settled on a winner, cook it the way I suggest in this recipe, which is to finish cooking the pasta in the sauce. It produces a more flavorful dish than the more traditional method of cooking sauce and pasta separately, then combining them at the last minute. Plenty tasty, but the flavors never marry.
I learned a better way years ago when New York chef and restaurateur Scott Conant (his mom is of Italian descent) was my guest on Cooking Live. Transfer the pasta to the sauce before it's fully cooked, then let it simmer in the sauce until it's done. The pasta absorbs the flavor of the sauce and becomes that much tastier.
If you also add a little of the pasta cooking liquid to the sauce, it will glue together the pasta and sauce in a most satisfying fashion.
And let's not forget our Swiss chard. A spring vegetable, this tangy Mediterranean member of the beet family comes in several colors, from bottle green to rainbow. And it's edible from tip to toe, too, stems included. Just slice the stems and put them in the pan before the greens, because they take a little longer to soften.
And if you're wondering how to persuade a full pound of greens to cook down within the confines of a single skillet, don't worry; the water that clings to the greens after you wash them will help them to wilt. Just add them a handful at a time. Besides chard, this dish also would provide a happy home for spinach, beet greens or any other greens.
To finish, I pepped up the greens with a little chicken sausage, but just a little and just for flavor. Plenty of cultures use animal protein this way, rather than relying on a substantial slab of it to occupy the center of the plate. There's a lesson there for us: It's better for our health and for the environment.
This is pretty much a one-dish meal. Serve it with a tossed salad on the side and a glass of vino, and savor your contentment.