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In Irma-devastated U.S. Virgin Islands, resolve blends with worry of being forgotten

On the hill above Cruz Bay on St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands, the house where Eugenio Santana Santana, 61, lived was blown away by Hurricane Irma.

Los Angeles Times/TNS

On the hill above Cruz Bay on St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands, the house where Eugenio Santana Santana, 61, lived was blown away by Hurricane Irma.

CORAL BAY, U.S. Virgin Islands — Sharon Coldren, standing on the balcony of the Coral Bay Community Council building, raised a megaphone to give a warning to about 100 of her fellow islanders.

"There are tropical storms on the way that could become hurricanes," she said to a crowd gathered Saturday outside the town hall. Evacuate, she said. Their last chance to leave their island of St. John would probably be a free ferry the next day to San Juan, Puerto Rico.

Even the military deployed to aid disaster relief left St. John ahead of the storm to avoid being stranded. The entire island was still largely without power, running water and phone service. Gasoline was rationed by the National Park Service.

"We don't know what kind of help we're getting from the government," Coldren said after the meeting, and acknowledged that many islanders wouldn't flee, even the sick and elderly who had lost homes to Hurricane Irma.

Irma killed dozens of people in the Caribbean. Some are also still missing, including a captain in Coral Bay who attempted to ride out the storm on his boat.

Yet many here feel their plight was ignored after the storm reached Florida, their experience as Americans forgotten, as if the hurricane here didn't count.

Among the three Virgin Islands that President Donald Trump plans to visit, St. Croix was largely spared by Irma. Portions of St. Thomas and St. John were devastated. Then came Tropical Storm Jose, which was still dumping rain on the islands Friday.

The smallest of the islands, St. John is just 5 miles wide and 9 miles long, and its 5,000 residents have a reputation for friendliness, which explains the island's nickname of Love City.

After surviving Irma, the strongest storm to hit the region in their lifetimes, and living for a week without access to the outside world — including weather reports — many of the 3,000 who remained wondered where they could run that would feel safer than home.

In the British Virgin Islands, a few miles away, officials had several cellphone networks running, and residents praised the government response. But in the U.S. island, Federal Emergency Management Agency managers were absent, Coldren said, though they had contacted her.

Her home had the roof peeled off, and her boat was destroyed.

A group of looters confronted Coral Bay denizen Elliot Hooper, 64, when he tried to stop them from stealing T-shirts he had saved from the storm at his store, Tall Ship Trading.

Hooper said he brandished a machete and shouted, "I've been here 30 years, and you're going to take my T-shirts?"

Then he stepped on a nail, and also realized there were about 10 men in the group, some probably with guns. So he retreated to his damaged black-and-white schooner, Silver Cloud, built in 1899.

He lost his business and home, neither of which were insured. He felt betrayed by the young men who stole from him. But he would not leave.

"This is my island," Hooper said. He pointed to a couple of dozen boats Irma had cast into the shallows among a twist of mangrove roots, bashed and broken.

"Each one of those is a friend," he said.

Capt. Karl Pytlik, 42, hiked back across the island after evacuating with his wife and two sons, ages 4 and 2, before Irma. He wanted to check on his pets, home and business.

His house was destroyed. But what really moved him was seeing the snapped masts on Hooper's vintage sailboat.

"I saw Silver Cloud, and I lost it," he said.

Pytlik's charter boat survived, along with at least one of the family's three cats, Noah, who rode out the storm in a mattress box spring.

Pytlik had no plans to leave.

Neither did Sloop Jones, 69, a local artist who sheltered in a neighbor's compound after his home and rental studio were ripped apart.

The studio roof and tile floor were wet but sound, he said as he inspected them Saturday. Three guests had already canceled, but he hoped to have the place repaired by December. He and his partner, Charlotte Seashore, had cleared the road themselves of downed power lines, telephone poles and other debris. The tamarind trees, banana palms and bamboo grove would grow back.

Then the sky unleashed a torrent of rain, and the roof began leaking. It was as if he were standing outside. He grabbed some pillows and stuck them in a dry corner of a closet, then spread his arms wide in frustration before exclaiming to the skies: "Just stop!"

On an island with a long history, residents mourned the destruction of landmarks almost as much as their own homes — in some cases, more.

Contractor Dan Boyd, 59, lost his house in the storm, but he didn't get choked up until he saw that the roof had been ripped off the historic Governor's Mansion, a whitewashed beacon at the mouth of Cruz Bay.

Walking past the building, he stopped to greet local Virgin Islands Sen. Brian Smith.

What got to Smith, 52, wasn't the damage to the mansion, but rather outside.

He pointed to what was once a row of 10 coconut palms that had withstood hurricanes during the past 50 years, bending in the wind like resilient islanders. Irma swept away all but two.

Military helicopters buzzed overhead, ferrying in supplies in from St. Croix. A local restaurant, the Longboard, was working with the American Red Cross to serve 1,000 meals a day. Police were enforcing a curfew from 6 p.m. to 10 a.m., the town largely dark and humming with generators.

The coming storms would delay further aid. The recovery would only be slowed if more military forces arrived now, said Clay Covel, a former Marine at the incident command center in Cruz Bay working with the Charleston-based nonprofit Global Dirt, who also went to Houston after Hurricane Harvey last month and to New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina. "As much as we want the extra military and assets, if all their supplies get destroyed, you have more mouths to feed" after the new storms, he said.

In Irma-devastated U.S. Virgin Islands, resolve blends with worry of being forgotten 09/17/17 [Last modified: Sunday, September 17, 2017 10:44pm]
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