200 E Tarpon Ave., Tarpon Springs, FL 34689
727-940-5377 Reserve now
Cost range: 10.01-20.00
Payment options: Credit cards accepted
Alcohol: Full bar
More in this neighborhood: Tarpon Springs
Say Tarpon and you think sponges, souvlaki and Greek salad with a scoop of potato salad hidden craftily in its midst. Currents swims against the tide, opened in 2009 by veteran restauranteur Tracey Swade. Decor is contemporary and spare, with pale fawn walls, rich brown brocade booths and a glorious long wooden bar that was part of the set for the filming of the 1953 Robert Wagner sponge drama, Beneath the 12-Mile Reef. The talent in the kitchen is Donald Kirkpatrick, emphasizing a farm to plate experience. He makes pretty, balanced food and has a keen eye for aesthetics, as in a seared fillet of salmon perched on blue cheese mashed potatoes surrounded by a hash of sauteed spinach, roasted corn and lengths of sauteed shiitake mushroom. Lovely. Or simple prosciutto-wrapped shrimp or paper-thin carpaccio slices with strewn capers, red onion and tasty shaved asiago, a bit of horseradish cream adding excitement.