7199 66th St., Pinellas Park, FL 33781
Cost range: 10.01-20.00
Payment options: Credit cards accepted
Alcohol: Beer and wine only
More in this neighborhood: Pinellas Park
It's warm and comfortable, selling Italian staples at fair prices. A few sips of Chianti classico, paired with an order of large, deep-fried green olives stuffed with ground meat and Parmesan, and you're on your way. But if you're looking for the culinary road less traveled, keep moving. Pastas come mix and match: Eight kinds of pasta, nine kinds of sauce. Rigatoni Bolognese sums up the ethos here. It's hearty, nurturing, with billows of rising steam the only challenge. It doesn't have all the secondary notes of some versions (cream, nutmeg, lemon zest, even chicken livers), but its high tones of bright tomato and low tones of dusky ground meat are enough.