6305 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach, FL 33706
Cost range: 20.01-100.00
Payment options: Credit cards accepted
Alcohol: Beer and wine only
More in this neighborhood: South Pinellas beaches
For years it was an outlier on St. Pete Beach, a community more comfortable with flip-flops than flambees. Bruce Caplan's salaciously named Fetishes Fine Dining was a throwback of sorts, a nod to the Continental restaurants of yore. Just eight tables and a menu that boasted tournedos, quenelles and brandy creams, it was presided over by Caplan with a ringmaster's keen eye. Area wine lovers knew it was one of the few places on the beach to receive major kudos from Wine Spectator, the depth and breadth of Caplan's list a surprise in such a small place. He reopened in a new location recently and excised the word "Fine" from the name. Has he taken things down-market? Absolutely not. What keeps the "fine" firmly in place is Caplan's decision to focus on tableside service, a phenomenon as rare as hen's teeth these days. He does tableside Caesar salads, steak Diane, Dover sole and flambeed desserts like bananas Foster. Hours: 5-10 p.m. Tues.-Sat.
Read a review here.