539 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, FL 33701
727-823-3700 Reserve now
Cost range: 10.01-20.0
Payment options: Credit cards accepted
Alcohol: Full bar
More in this neighborhood: Downtown St. Petersburg
Andrew "Wilko" Wilkins took over the Table in April 2009 and transformed it into an affordable French brasserie serving comforting, homey French classics like duck confit, cassoulet and steak frites. The decor and service still have to catch up, but the shift has been lovely, with good value all across the menu. A French onion soup is neither overly salty nor overly thymed, lots of sweet onion flavor, a rich broth and life preservers of baguette keeping molten cheese from the deep. An Alsatian onion tart is almost big enough for a light meal, with buttery, flaky pastry cradling a center of creamy slow-cooked onion dotted with briny olive. A daily changing steak frites brings rosy flank cut on the bias, napped with a dusky Bordelaise and paired with a pile of perfect fries. One of the menu's nicest touches is that the most expensive dishes are offered in a half portion at half price.