Sunday, July 15, 2018
Bars & Spirits

Bar review: Dissent Craft Brewing Company is off the beaten path in St. Pete

One peripheral benefit of a supposed brewery oversaturation is the crawl of new breweries away from bustling downtown areas and hip neighborhoods and into underserved parts of town previously stuck with no more than an occasional dive bar or family chain restaurant.

Downtown St. Petersburg, for example, is not in need of any more breweries. A couple of years ago, it was practically the only option for a local brew. Now, Tyrone area residents have the Pesky Pelican, and folks in the Kenwood, Old Northeast and Euclid neighborhoods can stroll over to Flying Boat for their hometown brews.

St. Peteís latest is Dissent Craft Brewing Company, a Lealman-area nanobrewery that brings a solid roster of interesting brews to an area that could surely use some.

It doesnít look like much from the street ó indeed, none of the units in this Haines Road strip mall boast much curb appealóbut itís very cozy inside, if somewhat minimal.

Thatís by design. Owners Chris Price and Dale Miller have placed their focus primarily on building their brand for future distribution, rather than decking out their taproom and trying to make it a destination bar, which is probably wise, given the location.

Near the entrance is a large, circular wood panel with the breweryís logo: a silhouette of an anonymous corporate drone, mouth crossed out. A splash of color comes by way of a blue, loosened tie, symbolizing freedom from the corporate world.

Around the border is the breweryís mission statement: "We brew beer not to meet sales quotas. We brew beer because we love beer. The people that drink our beer are not targets or consumers, they are beer lovers. From grain to glass, beer is our passion."

Price and Miller havenít fully escaped from the corporate world yet, but Dissent is already growing nicely, hopefully hastening the process. In mid March, after Tampa Bay Beer Week ends, Dissent will take over the neighboring unit, expand its hours of operation (which have already been expanded since its soft opening in late December), debut a Helles lager and a series of kettle-soured brews and get started on a barrel-aging program. Thereís lots in the works.

That doesnít mean that the breweryís current output is limited. To the contrary: the taproom currently features 10 house brews and two guest taps, with a lineup of beers thatís surprisingly ambitious given Dissentís short time in business.

At first glance, the menu is conspicuously IPA-heavy, but thatís not the full story. The Dissenter IPA, for example, uses a Belgian yeast strain to add subtle fruity, spicy notes to the brew, while Forbidden double IPA includes a hefty guava addition for a tropical balance to the beerís smooth bitterness.

Then thereís Hazy Mangover, which packs both mango and habanero peppers into a hazy IPA base. A SMaSH ó Single Malt and Single Hop ó brew showcases the flavor of Munich malt and the Falconerís Flight hop blend (admittedly stretching the rules of SMaSH beers just a bit), while the íMerica pale ale is double dry-hopped with the same hop blend for a massive burst of citrus-y goodness on top of a crisp, refreshing pale ale base.

Not an IPA fan? Thereís a pretty decent stout on tap, along with two uniquely flavored brews. Ginja Gaiden pairs a pale wheat ale base with ginger, while Honeybush Brown combines a mildly roasty brown ale with rooibos tea.

Dissent isnít designed as a destination brewery, but with such a variety of unique options, I wouldnít be surprised if some people made the trek from other parts of town. Heck, the day after I visited, legendary pro wrestler Chris Jericho popped in for a brewery tour and samples. Wordís getting out.

I expect more good things in the future from the Dissent folks. They may be located in a weird part of town for a brewery, but I consider that a positive in todayís brewery environment. Keep tasting rooms small, spread out and hyper-local; thatís the future. When the beer hits distribution, fine, but for now, Dissent is doing great as the closest and best local beer option for a pretty big chunk of town.

Contact Justin Grant at [email protected] Follow @WordsWithJG.

Dissent Craft Brewing Company

5518 Haines Road N, St. Petersburg; (727) 342-0255; facebook.com/dissentcraftbeer

The vibe: A no-nonsense taproom for St. Peteís latest and most unusually located brewery.

Booze: Beer, $5.

Specialty: IPAs are the starting point for many of Dissentís brews, but thatís where the similarity ends for most of them. Thereís a SMaSH (Single Malt and Single Hop) IPA brewed with Munich malt and Falconerís Flight hops, an IPA brewed with Belgian yeast, an IPA brewed with guava and another brewed with mango and habanero peppers. Non-pale ale options include a stout, a brown ale flavored with rooibos tea and an American wheat flavored with ginger.

Hours: 3 to 8 p.m. Thursday; noon to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; noon to 6 p.m. Sunday; closed Monday through Wednesday.

Comments
This Florida burger joint is one of the 10 best in America, travel website says

This Florida burger joint is one of the 10 best in America, travel website says

A 2Ĺ-hour drive south could land Tampa residents at one of Americaís best burger joints, according the review and travel website TripAdvisor.com.The website released a list of the "10 Most Delectable Burger Joints" in America on Wednesday, placing Na...
Published: 07/14/18
Epicurean to host fourth annual Epic Chef Showdown for Feeding Tampa Bay

Epicurean to host fourth annual Epic Chef Showdown for Feeding Tampa Bay

The Epicurean Hotel, 1207 S Howard Ave., plays host to the seven-week Epic Chef Showdown Feeding Tampa Bay benefit from 6:30 to 9 p.m each Monday starting July 16 running through to Aug. 27.Local celebrities and notable food writers will judge the fo...
Published: 07/12/18
Updated: 07/14/18
Bar review: New St. Pete breweries have sour power

Bar review: New St. Pete breweries have sour power

It took a few years, but downtown St. Petersburg is officially ready for a pair of manageable brewery crawls, thanks to the recent openings of Overflow Brewing Company and Inoculum Ale Works.The two breweries bridge the gap between Green Bench, Cycle...
Published: 07/12/18
Kekeís fourth site in South Tampa thrives among locals

Kekeís fourth site in South Tampa thrives among locals

Popular up-and-coming Orlando chain, Kekeís Breakfast Cafe has recently opened the doors to its fourth Tampa location in South Tampa on June 18. The restaurantís name Kekeís, originates from its owners Keith and Kevin Mahen who started the chain in 2...
Published: 07/12/18
Bundt cake shop coming to Wiregrass

Bundt cake shop coming to Wiregrass

LUTZ ó Even though itís not open for business yet, Tammy Mencia has been getting e-mails on a daily basis from excited customers wanting to know when Nothing Bundt Cakes is opening."Thatís a great sign," said Mencia, co-owner.In March 2017, husband a...
Published: 07/12/18
Vivianís Cajun Crawfish Pies found in Fresh Markets across Tampa Bay

Vivianís Cajun Crawfish Pies found in Fresh Markets across Tampa Bay

TAMPA ó Vivian Clarkís passion for Cajun cooking originated from her roots as a Louisiana native. She shared her specialty, Cajun crawfish pies, at a friendís party back in 1998 and ever since they have been in high demand. She began making them for ...
Published: 07/12/18
Local craft beer of the week: Butterfly Effect from Motorworks Brewing

Local craft beer of the week: Butterfly Effect from Motorworks Brewing

Bradentonís Motorworks Brewing has two interesting summer releases. The first is its wonderful Lavender Ale, a lush, lavender-infused scotch ale thatís going from draft-only to a full distribution run in 16-ounce cans. The second is an on-site exclus...
Published: 07/12/18
Friday is National French Fry Day. Find (free!) fries in Tampa Bay.

Friday is National French Fry Day. Find (free!) fries in Tampa Bay.

Guess what Friday is? Itís National Fry Day (#FRYdayThe13th, see what they did there?). Fun fact: Their origin story may not lie in France but in Belgium. So why do we credit France? Thomas Jefferson is said to have introduced deep-fried potatoes at ...
Published: 07/11/18
July 11, better known as 7/11, is upon us. With it? Free slurpees again.

July 11, better known as 7/11, is upon us. With it? Free slurpees again.

Itís that time of year again.For the 16th straight year, 7-Eleven will give out free slurpees Wednesday for its annual "7/11 Day" on July 11.Customers will be able to receive a free small Slurpee by going into any 7-Eleven location between 11 a.m. to...
Published: 07/11/18
We got a preview of the food at Osteria, the new Tampa restaurant from Top Chefís Fabio Viviani

We got a preview of the food at Osteria, the new Tampa restaurant from Top Chefís Fabio Viviani

TAMPA ó The evening began with chef Fabio Viviani telling the group to fork the fluffy coccoli in front of us, break it open then stuff it with the cold smoked prosciutto de Parma and stracchino cheese delicately laid out on wooden boards. "Stracchin...
Published: 07/10/18