Sunday, May 27, 2018
Bars & Spirits

Wine of the week: 2009 Marques de Gelida Brut Reserva Cava

Cava is Spain's sparkling wine, and by law it must be made in the traditional Champagne method. The 2009 Marques de Gelida Brut Reserva Cava (about $20 at wine-savvy markets) goes the standard one better by using organically farmed grapes, principally xarel-lo, parellade and macabeau. The result is a superior sparkling wine fit for special occasions as well as for pairing with food any time or sipping as an aperitif.

It opens with a nose of light lemon and toast accented with understated herbal notes. Classic. On the tongue it is lemony, malty and toasty with a tropical fruit edge and a tiny smidge of vanilla bean. Its columnar bubbles rise in a straw-colored wine and are lively and persistent. Its finish is long and crisp and dry.

We'll drink a good sparkling wine with just about anything, but this excellent cava will pair particularly well with seafood dishes like paella, mussels steamed in white wine and herbs or garlicky pan-sauteed shrimp.

By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.

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