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Forging a whole new identity

 
There’s no mistaking the heritage for Steel City Brewhouse.
There’s no mistaking the heritage for Steel City Brewhouse.
Published March 12, 2014

I can't think of a time where I wrote a dedicated article about the same business twice, but I also can't think of a business that has reinvented itself in as extreme a way as Steel City Brewhouse recently did when it left St. Pete's Grand Central district and re-opened in the old Hooters building between Ibis Walk and Gateway Crossings, north of Gandy Boulevard.

Steel City Brewhouse formerly inhabited a tiny space on Central Avenue that had been recently vacated by an ill-fated offshoot of The Independent called Rex. Owner Lynn Marasco took over and added flair from her hometown of Pittsburgh — vintage photos, a yellow and black color scheme (think Steelers, Pirates and Penguins), and beers from breweries like Pittsburgh Brewing Co., Rivertowne, and Full Pint.

Marasco's ancestors were European immigrants who settled into life in the Steel City, while her grandfather worked in the steel mills back in the '30s. While these roots weren't heavily emphasized in the old location, which was a simple beer-and-wine bar, the new spot brings a new element into the mix: a full menu, offering a variety of options that happen to include the kind of Czech and Polish fare that her family would prepare at home.

For fans of the old location (read: me), there are many recognizable items at the new place. The vintage photos, old license plates, the beer menu chalkboard, and — crucially — the old popcorn machine. I used to love hanging around at Steel City, drinking some Full Pint beers and snacking on free, unlimited popcorn and peanuts.

Steel City's new location is a pretty bold upgrade, with an interior that's more than twice the square footage of the original, as well as a wide-open front patio, complete with bright yellow umbrellas over the tables. Not only is the place much larger, it's, well, really new. The wood-and-steel motif lent the impression that some serious remodeling had been performed.

Steel City now offers a full menu, as well as a full liquor bar, both of which really change the dynamic. The staff is much larger and the place is much busier. I stopped in during lunch hours, and there was a decent crowd of lunch-break types from the surrounding local businesses.

Around the corner is the thriving Gateway Crossings shopping center, but the Steel City side is sparse, save for Tijuana Flats and a couple other small businesses on the opposite side of the sprawling parking lot. However, there's a lot of development in this area, including shopping strips and apartment complexes. While I think Grand Central is becoming premium real estate in downtown St. Pete, there's no question that this location will generate a lot of new business. It could be a pretty smart move by Steel City, even if the vibe is very different from the old digs.

As different as the vibe is, many things are the same. The tap list will look familiar to old Steel City fans; Cigar City, Dogfish Head, Yuengling, Ace and Full Pint retain their permanent tap status, while the others rotate. The bottle selection now is small, as is the wine list — which is currently comprised of house wines only — but the selection will expand after the official grand opening in April. And, of course, full liquor.

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The new Steel City Brewhouse is a dramatic re-imagining of a humble beer-and-wine bar. While I'll surely miss the old place, I'm excited to see how the new one grows, especially as the area continues to develop.

— jg@saintbeat.com