To avoid the thin and rather sour pinot grigios often found at the value end of the price scale in the United States, we've found that the best bet is to go Italian. At about $7 at local wine savvy markets and wine shops, the 2012 Santa Marina Pinot Grigio, from the province of Pavia in Northern Italy, is an excellent choice.
This smooth and refreshing white table wine opens with a light citrus nose and delivers more lively citrus on the tongue, especially tangerine and lime, as well as a touch of honey and a rumor of pear. It finishes long and dry, with pear more assertive at the finale than through mid palate.
This pinot grigio will make a thoroughly agreeable summer sundowner and will pair nicely with a chilled seafood salad, a buttery lobster roll or citrus-marinated chicken done on the grill.
By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel. For an index and archive of reviews, go to pictograph.com.