We expect a good white Burgundy to display a fine mineral edge. What we did not expect in the superbly subtle 2009 Bouchard Pere & Fils Réserve Bourgogne, a chardonnay, was an overall pleasing softness on the palate. The mineral is there, but there's more to it. We picked up this lovely wine for about $20 at a wine-savvy market and were happy with the price.
Bouchard Pere & Fils is a house with a long pedigree in Burgundy — Bourgogne in French — especially in the Cote d'Or department from which this chard hails. Their long experience shows.
Its nose displays understated lemon and an even fainter whiff of pink grapefruit, as well as subtle herbal notes. Nectarine comes to the fore on the tongue, beautifully balanced with lemon, that good mineral edge and the merest smidgen of vanilla. The finish is long and mellow, dry but in no way astringent. The finale is graced by a fillip of cantaloupe.
This wine will pair well with a wide range of white meats, veggie-based dishes and mild hard and soft cheeses. An artichoke frittata, herb-baked chicken or pan-sauteed grouper come quickly to mind.
By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.