We were pleasantly surprised to find a real bargain on the shelves of a local big box store in the form of a Spanish white made from 100 percent godello, a grape not previously on our radar. In its depth and complexity, the 2010 Atalaya do Mar Godello (snap up as many bottles as you can afford at about $12) shows off its cultivation in the dry winegrowing region of Monterrei in Galicia near the Portuguese border.
This beauty leads with the swoony aroma of lush ripe peach nuanced by hints of lemon and melon. Peach hangs in there on the tongue, abetted by a bit of lemon, a breath of anise and a smidgen of honey. All flavors are fully developed even at first sip, leading to an intense but utterly harmonious mid palate followed by a long, fresh and fruity finish.
Savor this exceptional wine all on its own at day's end or pair it with snapper sauteed with olives and tomatoes, chicken piccata or salt and pepper tofu or shrimp.
By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.