The Stump Jump White, an off-dry blend of riesling, sauvignon blanc, marsanne and rousanne grapes from the neighborhood of Australia's Adelaide Hills, declares its idiosyncratic nature right off the bat with a nose compounded of light mixed floral notes, faint citrus and almost undetectable wood smoke.
We picked up a bottle of the 2010 vintage for about $13 at a wine savvy market.
Winemaker Chester Osborn's tasting notes trumpet zesty citrus on the tongue with stone fruits and honey contributed by the marsanne and roussanne grapes. We tasted dominant pear with floral overtones in a mouth-filling wine. We tasted mango and that elusive crinkle of wood smoke around the edges, but no citrus. The finish is fruity and medium long, not dry but nonetheless clean.
Overall, this is a companionable wine that will appeal to those for whom a New Zealand 100 percent sauv blanc, for example, is a bit too astringent. It will drink easily on its own or paired with foods like herb-roasted chicken or pork or a hearty portobello mushroom "burger."
By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.